Are virtual vintage markets here to stay?
Welcome to the first edition of The Vintage Collective newsletter
Hi there!
After a few weeks of being very busy I’m pleased to launch the first edition of this newsletter.
Before we dive in to this week’s topic, here’s a little bit about me. I’m a freelance journalist and editor by day and a vintage shop owner and sustainable fashion advocate by night. I spent 6.5 years at The Guardian mostly editing content about sustainability and later was a commissioning editor in Guardian Labs (content marketing, if you’re up on that kinda shizzle). In April I took the plunge and went freelance, so I could do more writing and have more flexibility in my schedule. I also wanted to expand my little vintage shop, Milly and Maple.
I’ve had Milly and Maple for about four years and something I’ve noticed recently is an EXPLOSION of vintage and sustainable fashion sellers suddenly ALL over Instagram. I’ve also noticed the rise of newsletters as a way to galvanise and grow a community.
Enter the The Vintage Collective. A place which brings together traders, entrepreneurs, creatives and enthusiasts within the grassroots sustainable fashion scene. This little newsletter will bring you original content such as interviews with rockstar traders, info about upcoming events and fairs, networking opportunities and suggestions for interesting things to read and listen to.
Ok, let’s get the conversation going!
Are virtual vintage markets here to stay?
I guarantee that on any given weekend a vintage fair is happening somewhere in the UK. Or at least, that used to be the case. Then along came lockdown and we know what happened. The hustle and haggling, the rustle of dresses and clink of coins would be replaced with… EVERYBODY ONLINE.
From what I’ve observed, there are a couple things happening here. Those who only sold at fairs who were never really comfortable selling online suddenly had to face the music. And those who were already all over Instagram and Depop needed to find a way to up their game. For some it’s been a time of great opportunity and a fun new experiment. For others it’s been stressful.
I spoke to Keeley Harris, founder of Discover Vintage Marketplace, which launched at the beginning of this month. Keeley has been curating vintage markets and festivals since 2009 and launched her marketplace as a direct response to the pandemic. The marketplace is a one-stop shop for fashion and homewares, with over 50 traders so far to peruse.
When the pandemic hit Keeley was initially more in the stress camp - she’s had to cancel six vintage fairs so far and was not accustomed to selling online. “It's been a massive learning curve for me,” she says, but to her delight the marketplace seems to be taking off. She realised early on that if selling online was new and slightly daunting for her, there must be scores of other traders in the same boat. “Because a lot of the dealers are not used to selling online, I feel like I'm the headmistress and the coach,” she says.
So does this troupe of online newbies explain the huge influx on my feed? Yes, but only in part. The other day I interviewed a professor of sustainable business and marketing from the British School of Fashion for another piece I was working on. She mentioned that in times of economic hardship, entrepreneurs start popping up everywhere. Pair that with the growing desire from consumers to move away from unsustainable lifestyles and ease of selling online and pouf, suddenly we’re all spoiled for choice.
Ultimately this is good news for shoppers as all it takes is a few swipes, scrolls and DMs for a vintage Laura Ashley prairie dress to be plopped on your doorstep. For sellers, well, it’s getting a bit busy, but we’ll get into that in another newsletter.
Nobody really knows if we’ll ever get back to traditional market selling, but I think what is clear is that there will always be room for new and fun, digital ways to buy and sell. Whether that’s markets that take place via stories and hashtags, more curated Instagram fairs like those by A Virtual Vintage Market and Soul Love Vintage Fair, or online marketplaces like Keeley’s.
What have you been noticing about the way people are buying and selling sustainable fashion? Leave a comment below.
Business spotlight
Rene Loves Ernie first struck a chord with me when they did a story about the dynamic duo behind their pretty dresses and sunny back garden Insta shots. Heather Saxby runs Rene Loves Ernie with her mum, Shirl. First of all, I instantly love them because, Shirl. She is camera shy though so it’s retro photos of her only, which add to her mystique! Shirl used to have a vintage shop back in the day and she is the one who does most of the sourcing, Heather tells me. “She's just got a radar to pick up incredible pieces. And she's been doing it her whole life. It's always been her passion.”
When Heather had her son a few years ago, she went back to her day job in marketing after maternity leave but decided the 9-5 just wasn’t doing it for her anymore. She and her mum decided to launch Rene Loves Ernie last summer and they adore it.
With lockdown meaning they couldn't meet in person, Shirl would do a stock drop once a week at Heather’s front door. They soon started doing virtual fairs as it was becoming clear this was the way to trade in the age of corona. “[It’s been] great fun for us both, and has opened our eyes to a totally new way of trading,” says Heather.
“If we forget Covid for a minute (if only), I'm actually living the life I've always dreamed of and following in my mum's footsteps. She is absolutely thrilled that her years of being a vintage trader are being relived through me. We love working together...it just works.”
If you’re into sharply cut suits, florals and pretty dresses, def check them out. I particularly lovely this 1970s lilac dress with matching bolero.
Read
I recently discovered Courier magazine and highly recommend. Their tagline is Stories of Modern Business and their Aug/Sept issue has pieces on how to make it work as a creative business, the grassroots economy and building a collective. Tick, tick, tick. I must have been sending out vibes to the universe as those three articles basically sum up my life right now.
Listen
I’ve been dipping in and out of the Common Threads podcast hosted by Alice Cruikshank and Ruth MacGilp. They cover everything ethical fashion, from dissecting big brands to looking at the grassroots sustainable fashion community.
Check out episode 14 for their convo on how vintage fashion can save the planet. It features interviews with rockstar vintage traders Lapoze MacTribouy from Sooki Sooki Vintage (this gal is so fun!), and Rachel Valentine from Strange Ray Vintage (awesome shop name).
In the community
The Guardian is doing a call-out for readers to write in and contribute to a special issue of Weekend mag. They want to hear your questions and dilemmas on ethical fashion and revamping your wardrobe. The more specific the better.
I’ve been salivating over The Delicate Rebellion, a collective for independent creatives. Their aesthetic is all pinky-peachy lush and I’m dying to be among them. They open their doors once a year for a new cohort and there’s still time to join. £21 a month really doesn’t seem that bad seeing as I used to spend almost that to commute to London every day.
Trending
Some of the luscious pieces by Sika Designs, such as this two-piece, remind me of what upcycler extraordinaire Daniella Dawkins does. Check out her super fun transformational vids.
If Etsy is your platform, their new trends report is out. The latest episode of their Etsy Success podcast talks about holiday trends (gross, sorry) to start watching out for. Apparently citrus is in, loungewear will continue to dominate, and for vintage sellers, special holiday dining sets will be a thing.
Something you’d like to see covered in this newsletter? Email me at sarah.julie.lab@gmail.com or tell me in the comments!
Hi from Soul Love Vintage Fair - Thanks for the mention! You’ve hit the nail on the head. This lockdown has all be about adapting. As a vintage trader, fair organiser and freelance designer myself, I’ve felt it in all aspects of my work.
What’s been amazing it seeing everyone blossom, and expanding our network of vintage colleagues past who we pitch up next to. I’ve met so many amazing traders recently who I wouldn’t have usually crossed paths with.
Soul Love is all about inclusivity and accessibility and so having the freedom of online really helps that. Traders from all areas of the globe and the vintage world can take part, and we’ll run a fair if we have 5 traders or 50 traders (luckily we’ve been blessed by high numbers so far!).
The tricky part will be transitioning back to “the new normal” when the time comes but for now, I’m loving the virtual life!